The Norwegian fjords are one of the world’s most popular cruise destinations, but for many people, it’s the summer season that first springs to mind.
Long daylight hours. Waterfalls tumbling down steep mountainsides. Villages framed by green slopes. A better chance of good weather, although in Norway that is never something to take for granted.
But what about April? That was the question I had before my recent cruise on Fred Olsen’s Borealis. I have sailed on the ship before, I have visited all four ports before, and I live in Norway. I also work regularly as a cruise ship speaker on Norway itineraries.
And yet, I still had no idea what this cruise was going to be like. This was an eight-night cruise from Southampton to the Norwegian fjords, visiting Eidfjord, Skjolden, Bergen and Haugesund, with scenic cruising in the Lysefjord and Hardangerfjord along the way.
It could have been incredible. It could also have been grey, wet, windy and miserable.
This was very early in the cruise season. In fact, we would be just the second cruise ship of the year to visit Skjolden. Would things be open in the smaller towns? Would independent tours be running? Would the fjords look spectacular with snow on the mountains and powerful waterfalls, or would we just get low cloud and rain?
I had another point of comparison too. My dad joined me on this trip, and we had done a very similar itinerary on the same ship one year earlier, although that cruise had been in late May rather than late April.
So, is April too early to cruise the Norwegian fjords? After this trip, my answer is no. But with one very important caveat.
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Watch: My April Cruise
If you prefer video, I've made a video version of this article for my cruise travel YouTube channel. I hope you enjoy:
If you prefer reading, simply read on.
Packing for Several Versions Of Norway
The first challenge came before the cruise had even started. What exactly do you pack for a Norwegian fjords cruise in April?
Late April in Norway can be beautiful. It can also be cold, wet and windy. Snow is absolutely possible, especially once you head higher than sea level.
So I decided to place a bet on everything. I took layers, waterproofs, walking shoes, warmer clothes than I thought I might need and lighter options just in case Norway decided to surprise us. In other words, I overpacked. Quite a lot.
My dad picked me and my rather overstuffed cases up at Heathrow, and we drove down to Southampton together. I always like to spend the night before a cruise in the port if possible. It takes away so much of the stress of embarkation day.
Southampton was blessed with good weather, so we enjoyed a relaxed evening stroll and then a morning wander around Ocean Village before heading to the ship.
This was my first time boarding at Horizon Cruise Terminal, and it really couldn’t have been easier. We parked just a minute or so from the terminal, our bags were taken straight away, and we were able to board Borealis pretty much immediately.
So far, so good. But the real test was still to come.
Back On Board Borealis
Shortly after boarding, I found out something interesting. A very high number of guests on board were new to Fred Olsen, and many were new to cruising altogether.
That’s not always the case on Fred Olsen, which usually welcomes a high percentage of returning guests. But I knew straight away what it would mean. I was going to be busy.
People wanted to know about Norway. They wanted to know what to expect, what to wear, where to stand for the scenic cruising, whether they needed to get up early, and whether the weather forecast could possibly be trusted.
Honestly, I was wondering the same thing. In my first talk, I shared the forecast somewhat reluctantly, because it actually looked good. Very good. Which in Norway usually feels like tempting fate.
With the main theatre unavailable for much of the cruise, the talks were held in the smaller auditorium. They were busy throughout the cruise, even when we repeated them, which told me just how enthusiastic people were about seeing the fjords for the first time.
I tried to give them the best advice I could. Get up early for the sail-ins. Don’t assume the port call is the whole experience. Make the most of the outside decks.
On Borealis, that is one of the ship’s real strengths. When the weather allows, the forecastle and the observation deck right at the front of the ship can be opened. For scenic cruising in Norway, that is a fantastic place to be.
Thankfully, we were able to use those areas for our first real taste of Norway.
Scenic Cruising in the Lysefjord
Our first Norwegian experience wasn’t a port call at all. It was scenic cruising in the Lysefjord.
We weren’t docking anywhere. We were simply sailing in, turning around and sailing back out again. A taster of what was to come. And what an introduction it was.
I had to give a talk as we entered the fjord, so I missed some of the sail-in. But I was able to see everything on the way back out, and it was a wonderful way to begin the trip.
The Lysefjord is one of those fjords that really rewards being on the water. You can hike to famous places such as Pulpit Rock for that iconic view from above, but from sea level, you get a completely different perspective.
Yes, we could see Pulpit Rock from the ship. From down at water level, it looks unbelievably high. I stayed outside for ages, even as the temperature dropped and the wind picked up, because I wanted to see us pass under the bridge at the entrance to the fjord.
I love sailing under bridges on ships. It’s one of those little cruise moments that never really gets old.
As we sailed out of the Lysefjord, with the mountains around us and the bridge above us, I started to think: okay, if this is what April is going to give us, we might be in for something special.
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Eidfjord and a Trip to Vøringsfossen
The next morning was an early arrival into Eidfjord. I had been to Eidfjord a couple of times before, but it was the one port on this itinerary that was new for my dad.
Because of that, I had decided long before the cruise that we would book an excursion. But not a cruise ship excursion. Instead, I booked an independent shuttle bus up to Vøringsfossen waterfall.
I didn’t really need a guided tour, because I felt I could do that job for him. The ship’s tour also included a museum visit, which I wasn’t especially interested in on this occasion. So the shuttle saved us both money and time.
As we left Eidfjord and climbed higher, I did start to wonder about the conditions. Vøringsfossen is much higher than sea level, and I could see snow on the nearby mountains as we arrived into Eidfjord. Because this was April, I really wasn’t sure what the ground would be like.
So we took our grippiest footwear. In the end, we needed it.
Vøringsfossen is one of Norway’s best-known waterfalls, and it is easy to see why. The water plunges dramatically into the Måbødalen valley, with steep rock walls, mountain scenery and several viewpoints giving different perspectives on the falls.
The tourist infrastructure here is impressive, with walkways and viewing platforms making it easier to explore the area safely and see the waterfall from more than one angle.
That last point is important. It would be easy to step off the bus, take one photo from the main viewpoint and assume you have seen it. But Vøringsfossen rewards a bit of wandering.
Our shuttle gave us around an hour and a half at the site, which felt just right. It gave us enough time to explore properly, take photos, appreciate the scenery and still get back to the bus without rushing.
Controversial Steel Bridge
One of the most eye-catching additions to Vøringsfossen is the steel bridge that crosses the gorge.
It is not for everyone. Some people love it as a dramatic viewpoint and clever piece of engineering. Others feel it is a little too intrusive in such a wild landscape.
My dad was very keen to see it up close. Perhaps a little too keen, as he raced ahead while I was still carefully assessing the snow and ice underfoot. This was where April really made itself known.
The upper viewpoints were easy enough to enjoy, but the path down towards the bridge was more challenging. There were icy patches, wet sections and uneven ground. It was manageable for us with decent footwear and a bit of care, but I would not have wanted to attempt it in smooth-soled shoes.
We made it down to the bridge, just. I took a few steps onto it and encouraged my dad to do the same, although I didn’t want to linger too long. Not because of the bridge itself, but because I knew we still had the climb back up to the car park.
And then there was the wind. It was absolutely brutal at times, and this was one of those moments when I was very grateful for proper windproof clothing.
A Short Wander In Eidfjord
Back in Eidfjord, we had a little time before sailaway.
We stopped for a warming drink in a small café, shop and art gallery before heading back towards the ship. On the way, my dad found one of those quirky sculptures that seem to appear in small Norwegian towns, so of course we had to stop for a photo.
I then took a quick wander along the waterfront to get some views of the ship from the shore.
This is something I always recommend in smaller cruise ports. Even if you don’t have much time left, it’s worth walking a little way along the water rather than heading straight back to the gangway.
You often find the best views of the ship, a quiet photo spot, a sculpture, a swing or just a different angle on the place you have visited.
In Eidfjord, there were crew members doing exactly the same thing, and passengers enjoying the fjord swing near the waterfront.
That is one of the pleasures of small Norwegian cruise ports. There may not always be a long list of attractions, but there is usually beauty close at hand.
Sailing the Hardangerfjord
Our sailaway from Eidfjord was very early. But that was deliberate.
As I had explained in my first talk, the idea was to give us the chance to experience the Hardangerfjord during the afternoon, rather than later in the evening when many people would be at dinner or watching onboard entertainment.
This is something Fred Olsen often does very well in Norway. The port call itself is only part of the day. The scenic cruising can be just as important.
We had a light lunch at the poolside restaurant, which is probably my favourite dining venue on Borealis, then got ready for an afternoon outside.
The highlight was sailing under the Hardanger Bridge. This bridge is an engineering marvel, and from a distance it almost doesn’t look real. It seems so small at first. Then, as the ship gets closer, it becomes more and more dramatic until suddenly you are sailing right underneath it.
As we continued through the fjord, with snow sprinkled across the tops of the mountains, I realised just how lucky we had been so far. This was exactly the version of April in Norway that I had hoped for.
Clear enough to see the scenery, cold enough to still feel early-season, and snowy enough to make the mountains look spectacular.
The Sail-In to Skjolden
The following morning, we were scheduled to arrive in Skjolden. But not until 10am. That timing mattered.
A slightly later arrival meant we could all enjoy the sail-in through the Lustrafjord at a civilised time of day. For me, this was perhaps the best fjord scenery of the entire cruise.
I had encouraged everyone to be out on deck for the sail-in, so I was really pleased to bump into several guests on the forecastle and observation deck at the front of the ship.
On my previous visit to Skjolden, the ripples in the water had looked almost like liquid metal. Incredibly, we had exactly the same effect again.
The reflections, the waterfalls, the stillness of the water, the mountains rising around us. It was absolutely beautiful. This is why I always say that on a Norwegian fjords cruise, the arrival can be the main event.
If you stay in bed until the ship is alongside, you may already have missed the best part of the day.
A Quiet Sunday in Skjolden
Skjolden is not exactly lively at the best of times. And this was a Sunday. In April.
So I had told people in my talk to make a plan, even if that plan was simply going for a long walk to a scenic viewpoint. Then I decided I should probably follow my own advice.
One of the best things about working on cruise ships is meeting and getting to know fellow guest entertainers. On this cruise, I was reunited with Elspeth, a classical pianist who happened to be on my very first working cruise more than three years ago.
A mutual friend had recommended a walk to the Sengaberget viewpoint, so we decided to tackle it together. The walk began gently enough on a road, then turned onto a gravel road, and then switchbacked up into a forest trail.
It was short, only around 30 minutes from the village centre to the top. But it was steep for much of the way, and when you’ve been eating in a cruise ship buffet for almost a week, you definitely notice that.
The ground was also rocky and uneven in places, so this was not a flip-flops-and-hope-for-the-best kind of walk. But just as we thought we had reached our limit, the mountain ledge appeared. And what a reward.
From the top, we had wonderful views back across Skjolden, the fjord and the ship.
It was one of those simple cruise port experiences that costs nothing, gives you a real sense of place and makes you feel like you have actually done something with the day.
If you visit Skjolden on a cruise and you’re comfortable with a short but steep walk, give this one a go. You won’t regret it.
Bergen in the Sunshine
After three very strong fjord days, it was time to mix things up with a city. The next morning, we arrived in Bergen. Because we had enjoyed such good weather so far, I assumed this would be where the rain finally arrived. Because, well, it’s Bergen.
But when I woke up and looked outside, I could barely believe my eyes. The sun was out. And it stayed out for almost the entire day.
Last year, on a very similar cruise with my dad, we had also had good weather in Bergen. We ended up pretty much repeating that day.
We took the Fløibanen funicular up to Mount Fløyen. I hadn’t planned on doing it again, but with weather like this, how could we not? The views were sensational.
There were three cruise ships in Bergen, yes, even in April, so the city did feel busy. Perhaps even more so after the two relatively small ports we had just visited. But the liveliness actually kept us going. We stayed off the ship for hours.
We had a good look around Bryggen too, the World Heritage site with the colourful wooden buildings that appear in almost every photo of Bergen.
As I always tell people, don’t just stand across the road and take the classic photo. You have to walk up the small alleyways between the buildings to properly experience Bryggen.
That’s where you get the creaking timber, the uneven walkways and the sense of history that makes the place so special.
A Little Time Alone In Bergen
People often ask me if I get tired on working cruises. The answer is yes, absolutely. I love talking to guests. I love giving the talks. I love answering questions. But I always reach a point where I need a bit of time on my own.
In Bergen, that moment came. Rather than hiding away in the cabin, I decided to take an evening walk back into the city.
We were in Bergen until after 10pm, presumably because our next port, Haugesund, was not far away at all. So I took full advantage of the lovely evening light and walked down to the city lake. A little bit of me time.
I did make it back to the ship in time for dinner, and then to catch the final show from the Borealis theatre company. Not just the final show of the cruise. The final show of their contract. That felt like a nice moment to be part of.
Haugesund From The Ship
Our final port was Haugesund. This was somewhere both my dad and I had been before, and I’ll be honest, it’s not my favourite port in Norway. There is enough to see and do for a first-time visitor. Plenty of guests told me they enjoyed it, and that’s great.
But I do think that on a return visit, Haugesund is one of those ports where you probably need to book a tour to get the most out of the day. So I chose to stay on the ship.
I worked for a few hours up in the Olsen Art Studio, which is one of my favourite places on Borealis to get some peace and quiet on a port day. I wanted to run through my final talk, but just as I was doing so, some movement outside caught my eye.
It was the seaplane excursion taking off. A few minutes later, a much stranger sight appeared. A building being towed by a boat.
Funnily enough, it wasn’t even the first time I had seen something like this in Norway. I saw something very similar on my Havila coastal voyage a few years ago. So even when you stay on the ship, there is usually something to see.
The Final Sea Days
After Haugesund, we had the final day and a half at sea. The ship was busy.
There was an ice sculpture demonstration. My fellow guest speaker Don gave a talk about Donald Campbell. Elspeth performed in the Neptune Lounge. There was the Captain’s cocktail party.
For me, it was time to give my final talk of the cruise, this one on Scandinavia. After the talk, I had a lot of questions from guests, and this is usually the point in a cruise where I start to reflect properly.
Because I had begun the trip with one big question. Is April too early to cruise the Norwegian fjords?
(ad) Interested in a Norwegian Fjords cruise? My friends at The Cruise Globe Agency will help you find the ideal itinerary for you at the best possible price. Simply fill out this form, and one of their knowledgable team will be in touch to talk through your options.
So, Is April Too Early?
For us, April was not too early. In fact, it was tremendous.
The fjords looked spectacular. The snowy mountains added so much to the scenery. The waterfalls were powerful. The smaller ports were peaceful. Bergen gave us sunshine. The whole cruise had that early-season feeling of seeing Norway before the main rush begins.
But, and this is a big but, we were lucky. Very lucky. The weather could easily have been different.
Just a few days after I returned home, I woke up to snow. That could have been our cruise. And if the weather had turned, the experience would have changed completely.
For us, this April cruise on Borealis was a gamble. But it was one that paid off big time.
