Visiting Olden again with my dad, I finally made it to Briksdal Glacier by troll car. Despite the rain, the waterfalls and mountain views made it a day to remember.
Olden is one of my favourite places in the Norwegian fjords. Whether you're travelling by road or ship, the scenery is spectacular long before arrival, and there’s no shortage of memorable day trips.
I’ve visited several times before and taken in the views from the Loen Skylift and joined a guided tour to the Kjenndalen glacier. Both were outstanding experiences.
But on this latest visit, I was with my Dad and wanted to do something special. I decided it was time to finally see Briksdalbreen, the Briksdal Glacier.
Despite being one of the most famous sights in the area, I’d somehow never made it there. With Norway’s glaciers retreating at an alarming pace, it felt like a now-or-never kind of trip.
Planning a Trip to Remember
Olden, together with nearby Loen, serves as a kind of basecamp at the eastern end of the Nordfjord. It's a gateway to some of the most dramatic landscapes in western Norway.
Surrounded by towering peaks and glacier-fed lakes, it’s a dream setting for outdoor adventures. But with so many things to do in Olden, where do you start?
We arrived in Olden by cruise ship, and I knew from past experience that booking a tour is the best way to see the real Olden beyond the village and cruise pier. The village is pleasant and surrounded by jaw-dropping mountains, but the region’s real treasures lie further inland, a little too far to walk.
🇳🇴 Olden Travel Resources: Make the most of your trip to Olden, whether you visit the Briksdal Glacier or choose another way to spend your time.
🛏️ Get the best rates on accommodation in Olden
👣 Check out these independent tour options in Olden
🚘 Book car rental for your Norway trip
🚘 Make sure you're covered with travel insurance
Having experienced the sensational views from the Loen Skylift before, I was sorely tempted to head back there. But Briksdal was calling.
When researching tours, I found that excursions offered on the cruise ship offered either a hike or a ride in a so-called “troll car,” but I felt the prices were steep. This was verified after a little online research.
Instead, I found an independent option online from a company called Olden Adventure. It offered a shuttle bus to the Briksdal lodge plus the same troll car ride, for significantly less. It even picked us up right at the cruise pier. Perfect!
A Rainy Start
We boarded the coach and managed to snag front-row seats on the upper deck—ideal for the views, though those views were quickly obscured by a downpour as we left the port.
Still, the rain only added to the moody, atmospheric beauty of the Olden Valley. The 45-minute drive was guided, with interesting commentary about the region, including the avalanche tunnel we drove through.
There’s a photo stop at a lake where you’re supposed to get a distant view of the glacier, but cloud cover made that impossible. It didn’t bode well, I thought.
Any doubts I had disappeared the moment we arrived. Nestled among steep mountain walls and dominated by a stunning waterfall, the Briksdal lodge felt like a gateway to somewhere special.
We had about 20 minutes before our troll car departure, so we grabbed a coffee from the massive gift shop (which also sells ponchos, clearly in demand!) and took in the dramatic surroundings.
The Briksdal Troll Cars
The “troll cars” are seven-seat open-air buggies introduced in the early 2000s to replace the traditional horse-and-cart service that had been used for nearly a century.
These days, the cars transport visitors through the Jostedalsbreen National Park, climbing steadily along a winding trail toward the glacier.
They come at an additional charge, and while tickets can be bought on site, it's best to book in advance. Or, do as we did, and book a package.
We were lucky: just as we set off, the rain stopped. I couldn’t believe our luck! The ride itself was a joy: 20 minutes of twisting roads, misty forest, and tumbling waterfalls.
A particular highlight was the thundering Kleivafossen waterfall, which the road wraps around in a dramatic curve. From every angle, it looked different and even more impressive.
We passed some hikers along the way, but I was glad of the lift, especially with my Dad along.
That said, if you’re fit and looking for a more immersive experience, the hike does look beautiful. It takes approximately one hour there and 45-50 minutes back, but allow time to admire the star attraction. Speaking of which…
Face to Face with the Briksdal Glacier
The troll cars drop you off around 15 minutes’ walk from the glacier viewpoint. The walk is optional, but absolutely worth it.
The trail winds uphill past enormous boulders (likely deposited by the glacier long ago) and signage marking the glacier’s dramatic retreat over recent decades. Those markers really bring the climate crisis into sharp focus.
Then, suddenly, the glacier comes into full view. And wow. It wasn’t just the vivid blue ice itself, but the whole scene of steep cliffs and cascading streams that took my breath away.
I scrambled up a small sandbank for a better view, and the glacier lake came into sight, adding the final touch to an already spectacular vista. Me and my Dad messed around taking selfies, but also just stood quietly for a while, taking it all in.
The Briksdal Glacier is part of the larger Jostedalsbreen ice cap, the biggest glacier on mainland Europe. While Briksdal is just one of its many arms, it’s undoubtedly the most famous thanks to its dramatic setting and accessibility.
But standing there, looking at how far it has retreated, it’s impossible not to feel a sense of urgency. This landscape is changing fast. Seeing it now felt like witnessing something both timeless and fleeting, a reminder of how precious these natural wonders really are.
The Return Journey to Olden
The ride back in the troll car was no less spectacular. Seeing the route in reverse offered new perspectives on the waterfalls and surrounding peaks, now washed clean by the rain.
On the return coach to Olden, we were caught in another shower, but it didn’t matter. We were already reliving the whole experience, flipping through photos and chatting about the day.
The coach offered an optional stop in the centre of Olden, giving people a chance to explore the village. Since I’d done that on previous visits, we stayed on board and headed back to the ship.
Briksdal Glacier via Troll Car? Do It!
This glacier trip absolutely lived up to the hype, and then some. I was worried it might feel underwhelming, especially after seeing how far it has retreated, but it didn’t.
🇳🇴 Olden Travel Resources: Make the most of your trip to Olden, whether you visit the Briksdal Glacier or choose another way to spend your time.
🛏️ Get the best rates on accommodation in Olden
👣 Check out these independent tour options in Olden
🚘 Book car rental for your Norway trip
🚘 Make sure you're covered with travel insurance
If anything, the contrast between the present-day glacier and the markers showing its past extent made the experience even more powerful.
If you’re arriving in Olden by cruise ship, I can’t recommend this excursion enough. Whether you hike or ride, seeing the Briksdal Glacier is an unforgettable way to spend a day in the fjords.
My first time visiting – as a Norwegian – was in 1969.
And WOW!!!!- what a difference today!!!!
Absoutely UNbelievable …. and scary! What hve we done to our planet??
Wondered if you (could) happen to pay attention to accessibility? Did you notice or have photos of ramps or things for wheelchairs? I LOVE your content and am planning a trip to Norway soon. I try to look for wheelchair accessibility options in your photos/videos. As you travel and get video of your travels and excursions, please show as much as you can of cities and buildings as some of us are looking for things like elevators, ramps, accessible restrooms.
Keep up the great work!!
May I ask what your departure time was from the ship? I noticed that you said when you arrived at the glacier you had to wait 20 minutes before the troll car actually departed to go up.
I actually booked the same Excursion except Olden Adventures was sold out of the package that included the troll cars so I had to reach out to the troll car operators independently. I guess my concern was I wanted to book the 8:00 a.m. departure for the shuttle from the cruise port to the glacier) and that would get us to the glacier at 8:45. but the troll car departure does not start until 9:00 a.m. so I was afraid that the waiting time would count against us, since the shuttle Excursion itself was only three and a half hours (8am to 1130am) which probably means the coach has to depart by 10:45.
I planned on walking back from the glacier downhill and not taking the troll car…
You’ll need to contact the providers directly to figure this out. I was on an organised excursion so the waiting period was all part of the schedule. All I’ll say is the troll cars are much quicker than walking!
As well as Olden and Briksdale, another trip would have been to Fjaerland and the two glacier arms there, Boyum and Supphela, ? Spelling!!ferry trip from Hella or Balestrand up the Fjaerlands fjord and the bus trip to the two glacier arms with coffee and cake at Boyum.
Definitely worth it if you haven’t been before. For me it would be disappointing after seeing it in the 90’s, when it was sooooo much bigger than today, with the ice tumbling into the lake where you could actually touch it and pick up pieces, and you could book excursions to walk on the ice. It is quite tragic how most of it has receded into the far distance.
However, I do agree with you about the Nordfjord, it is also my favourite fjord.